Ohjeet kotiin jääville liikekannallepanossa?

Jos on sukua maalla niin kotirintaman keskitys sukutilalle esim mummolaan on harkinnan arvoinen vaihtoehto.

Tämä on minunkin suunnitelma. Nähtävästi itsekin olen kotiinjäävien joukossa ainakin ensivaiheessa, joten koittaisin huolehtia perheestä ja sukulaisista. Eivätpähän sitten kuormittaisi omalta osaltaan viranomaisia. Duuni on sellainen, ettei varmaan ole kovin korkealla prioriteettilistalla kriisissä. Sen voi siis jättää. Kotipaikalla ja anoppilassa omakotitalot maalla. Niissä on tulisijat ja polttopuuta löytyy, samoin järvestä vettä. Ehkä myös elintarvikkeiden hankinta on helpompaa alkutuotannon ääreltä, vaikkapa työsuoritusta vastaan.

Tupakka oli kova sana valuuttana Saksassa hyperinflaation aikaan. Nyt polttoaine voisi olla sellainen. Löpöä voisi käyttää dieselautossa, kun viranomaisilla olisi muuta tärkeämpää tekemistä kuin verotuksen valvominen. Talvikelpoisia metsästyskamppeita pidän mukana myös kaupunkiasunnolla. Aurinkopaneelit voisi olla hyvä varuste tuolla maalla.
 
Viime rähinässä riista metsästettiin sukupuuton partaalle alta aikayksikön, sen jälkeen on porukka lisinyt ja erämaa vähentynyt. Metsästä ei pitkään särvintä riitä.

Jos netti ei ole tappanut viimeisiä yhteistyökykyjä/haluja naapurustossa niin kotirintama voisi järjestäytyä osuuskunniksi ja vaihtopiireiksi.
 
Tupakka oli kova sana valuuttana Saksassa hyperinflaation aikaan. Nyt polttoaine voisi olla sellainen. Löpöä voisi käyttää dieselautossa, kun viranomaisilla olisi muuta tärkeämpää tekemistä kuin verotuksen valvominen.

Diesel ja kevyt polttöljy (tupaöljy, pöllö-öljy, löpö) ovat samaa ainetta, joten taatusti ei tule olemaan niin, että toisesta olisi pulaa ja toisesta ei.

Perinteisesti erona noilla ollut vain väriaine, jolla on merkitty rankemmin verotettu diesel, mutta nykyisin niissä lienee jotain eroja lisäaineistuksessa, koska nykymoottorit ovat niin kranttuja laadulle. Käytännössä ero lienee kuitenkin niin pieni, ettei mitään eroa huomaisi.
 
Joo, nykyään on lämmitysöljy ja moottoripolttoöljy (veroton = väriaineella) erikseen. Hintasuhteet vaan on useimmiten niin veikeät, että kannattaa tilata tuota moottoripolttoöljyä myös öljypoltinkäyttöön.
Uudemmat dieselit, missä ruiskutuspaineet on korkeita, on kai aika kranttuja. Samat common rail systeemit on kuitenkin käytössä myös työkoneissa ja niitä ajetaan mopö:llä. Se käynee siis mille tahansa.
Joskus oli huhupuheita, että farmarisäiliöt sinetöitäisiin kriisitilanteessa ja polttoaineet jaetaan tarpeen mukaan. Sen verran itsekäs olen, että joku tynnyri saattais jäädä mainitsematta
 
Kulta ja hopea ovat sellaisia valuuttoja, että ne käyvät käytännössä kaikkialla. Ne myös toimivat maksuvälineinä niin kauan, kun jotain yleensäkään pystyy valuutalla ostamaan. Erityisesti kulta on sellainen materiaali, että se herättää ihmisissä sen kuuluisan "kullanhimon". Puhdas kultakolikko kourassa on helppo tehdä kauppoja.

Väitän, että kulta ja hopea ovat hyviä vain yhdessä asiassa, ne säilyttävät arvonsa. Eli jos halua säilyttää suurehkon määrän omaisuutta suhteellisen kompaktissa muodossa, niin osta kultaa.

Olen keskustellut ihmisten kanssa, jotka ovat joutuneet pakenemaan kriisialueelta. Käytännössä kulta on huono vaihtoesine. Poikkeusoloissa ei ole mahdollista mennä asiallisen kauppiaan luokse joka vaihtaa esineen kohtuullisella kurssilla valuutaksi. Oikeastaan kaikki ihmiset kertovat, että kriisialueilla on joutunut vaihtamaan pakkotilanteessa esimerkiksi kultaisia sormuksia vaikka ruokaa tai autokyytiä vastaan. Vaihtosuhde on ollut erittäin huono. Kultaa ei pysty syömään, eikä sillä ole mitään välitöntä käyttöarvoa ja niin se usein päätyy pilkkahintaan keinottelijan taskuun.
 
Viimeksi muokattu:
Kultaa ei pysty syömään, eikä sillä ole mitään välitöntä käyttöarvoa ja niin se usein päätyy pilkkahintaan keinottelijan taskuun.

Netissä on lista tarvikkeista jotka katoavat kriisin tultua. https://www.lewrockwell.com/2015/05/tess-pennington/100-emergency-items-that-will-disappear-first/

Listan 30 ensimmäisen esineen muodossa paskapaperi on vaihtotaloudessa paljon arvokkaampi kuin tulitikut. Se on jopa arvokkaampi kuin ensiapupakkaus jostain kumman syystä. Mutta ei kuitenkaan yhtä arvokas kuin esimerkiksi puulämmitteinen liesi. Jeesusteippi löytyy sijalla 50. Suklaa 76. Kahvi 92 ja tupakit 93.

Mitenköhän tuo listasijoitus kahvin kanssa on Suomessa?
 
Viimeksi muokattu:
Hyvä artikkeli miten valita pakoreitti jos se tulee vastaan konfliktin aikana kotiväelle. Soveltaen tämä käy myös kotimaahan.

Everyone has a plan to “Get Out of Dodge” in an emergency. As I teach my self defense and firearms classes, I ask people and they all say, “I’d head up to my cabin” or “I’ll head out west”. The problem is, have you actually considered how you will leave the immediate area of your home or work? Most of the people I hear begin their plan ambiguously. They say, just simply, “I’d leave town”, but they have never done any reconnaissance or real-life consideration of their route.

As humans, we are creatures of habit. If I want to leave my house in Metro Detroit and head to my cabin, I just jump on the freeway two blocks from home and take it most of the way, right? Well, on a normal weekend, without any unrest or an emergency, that’s very simple.

These basic plans fall apart once we consider the effects of a large civil disturbance, a disaster, or simply a large-scale long-term blackout. With the increasing trend of protesters blocking the freeways and major streets, these issues must be taken into consideration.

As the crisis unfolds, people will take to the streets in many ways. Protesters who may be out, people seeking to re-unite with family members, looters, people seeking supplies, and people trying to leave the area will all clog the roads. Authorities will attempt to retain control by establishing traffic control points and roadblocks. Roads and highways may also have been damaged.

When planning routes, a simple and thorough process needs to be used. The process begins with locating four different routes to use in the event one is blocked. A map study is a method to predict where issues may arise. You must drive these routes (conduct reconnaissance) to determine where the problems areas are and how to avoid them. Safe havens and supply stops (or absence thereof) must be planned. Final coordination with others at your destination is also needed. We will address these areas in this article.
https://survivalblog.com/selecting-an-escape-route-by-kyosa-d/
 
Mitä varaatte kotiin jääville ruuaksi? Siltä varalta etteivät ehdi tai pääse mökille (ja sekin riippuu tilanteesta onko parempi olla kaupungissa vaiko maaseudulla)

BP-5 compressed food, vesikanistereita tai veden säilytyspusseja + micropur ok?

Ennen laitettiin naurista kuoppiin ja paettiin metsiin. Mitä ovat nykyajan "nauriit"?
 
Säilykkeitä, pastoja, riisiä sun muita kuin helposti pilaantuvia. Tässä on oma tieteenalansa ja menee pitkälti survivalist/prepper hommiksi jos rupeaa spesifioimaan. Tarkoitus on selvitä vähintään viikko taikka pari ennen paniikkia.
 
Jos on sukua maalla niin kotirintaman keskitys sukutilalle esim mummolaan on harkinnan arvoinen vaihtoehto.

Jaa onkos sitä muistettu käydä "sukutilalla" auttamassa perunannostossa, heinänteossa ja klapisavotassa?

PS! Joskus vetänyt herneen nenään sukutila -termistä. Ja siitä, että kaupunkilaispummit suunnittelee lähettävänsä perheen maalle loisimaan.

Minä olen kyllä olettanut omien vanhempieni, appivanhempieni ja muutaman muunkin sukulaisen tulevan meille auttamaan sotatilanteessa. Meillä on paljon tekemätöntä työtä jos minä ja pojat ollaan poissa. Ruoka saattaa kyllä olla kovin yksipuolista. Pitääkin puhua tämäkin asia valmiiksi sukulaisten kanssa. Meillä on käyty talkoissa, joten sukulaiset ovat tervetulleita.
 
Jaa onkos sitä muistettu käydä "sukutilalla" auttamassa perunannostossa, heinänteossa ja klapisavotassa?

PS! Joskus vetänyt herneen nenään sukutila -termistä. Ja siitä, että kaupunkilaispummit suunnittelee lähettävänsä perheen maalle loisimaan.

Minä olen kyllä olettanut omien vanhempieni, appivanhempieni ja muutaman muunkin sukulaisen tulevan meille auttamaan sotatilanteessa. Meillä on paljon tekemätöntä työtä jos minä ja pojat ollaan poissa. Ruoka saattaa kyllä olla kovin yksipuolista. Pitääkin puhua tämäkin asia valmiiksi sukulaisten kanssa. Meillä on käyty talkoissa, joten sukulaiset ovat tervetulleita.

Meidänkin "sukutilalle" mahtuu vain valikoitu porukka.
 
Minä olen kyllä olettanut omien vanhempieni, appivanhempieni ja muutaman muunkin sukulaisen tulevan meille auttamaan sotatilanteessa. Meillä on paljon tekemätöntä työtä jos minä ja pojat ollaan poissa. Ruoka saattaa kyllä olla kovin yksipuolista. Pitääkin puhua tämäkin asia valmiiksi sukulaisten kanssa. Meillä on käyty talkoissa, joten sukulaiset ovat tervetulleita.

Maalla on kaikki parempaa. Meillä oli arkkupakastimessa marjoja, sieniä, kalaa katiskoista, puolikas hirveä ja kaikkea muuta mukavaa. Perunakellarissa oli monta sataa perunoita, sipuleita, ja muita juureksia. Intin aikana kun faija lähti saksaan, ja mutsi lappeenrantaan artesaani kouluun, niin ei mulla ollut mitään hätää. Aina oli ruokaa, ja sitä riitti pitkälle myös sen jälkeen kun armeijasta pääsi pois.

Kaupungissa tämä kaikki on sitten ruokakaupan johdolla. Mitään pottumaita ole missään lähellä, ja jos on niin mahdollisuus on siinä että ne varastetaan. Nyky kaupunki ihmiset eivät lähde minnekkään marjametsään, taikka sienestämään, puhumattakaan metsästämisestä taikka kalastamisesta. Maalla sen sijaan on melko pakko harrastaa näitä asioita, kun ne kaupat voivat olla helvetin kaukana ja omavaraisuus on kunniaa.
 
Älä luota siihen että ruoka pääsee luoksesi. Konflikti pelkästään voi aiheuttaa ongelmia logistiikassa ja se ei mahdollisesti ilmesti lähikaupan hyllylle vaan pysyy satamassa kontissa, kuten tästä artikkelista voi lukea.

The devastation to Puerto Rico caused by Hurricane Maria more than a week ago continues to provide object lessons in the necessity of becoming a prepper full-time and not just as some passing fad.

You may recall that the storm completely knocked out the island’s entire electrical power grid. Besides that, there has been massive destruction and flooding. What goods remained after the storm blew through are long gone. Aid workers and National Guard troops are working hard to restore basic services, but another problem has cropped up.

Food, fresh water, and basic supplies are arriving by the ton. Thousands of shipping containers brought in by scores of cargo ships are piling up on the docks of Puerto Rico’s main ports, which have been reopening steadily as workers cleared storm debris in Maria’s aftermath.

The problem is that the logistical chain has been destroyed; there’s no way to quickly distribute the tons of food and supplies that are being shipped in, and it’s not clear that food and water will be distributed quickly enough before people start dying.
https://www.naturalnews.com/2017-09...e-the-logistics-chain-has-been-destroyed.html
 
mitä yleisluonteisia ohjeita antaisitte kotiin jäävälle puolisolle (+lapsille) liikekannallepanotilanteessa?

Koitan osittain välttää jo moneen kertaan mainittuja. Painopiste etukäteisessä varautumisessa.

1. Pieni ja halpa kassakaappi maksaa jonkun 200-300. Sen voi pultata seinään, piilottaa tai pitää näkyvillä.

Kannattaa hankkia sen kokoinen että läppärit, pieni kassalipas, kodin tärkeimmät paperit. vara-avaimet, kriittiset lääkkeet yms. saa sinne.

Edes pikkuisen huolettomampaa.

2. Käteistä kotona noin 1-2kk ruoka-, polttoaine- yms kulujen verran.

3. Isointa kokoa olevia kahvinsuodatinpusseja ylimääräisiä pari pakettia.

4. Joditabuja. Käsidesiä.

5. Alkusammutusvälineistö kuntoon.

6. Printterin mustetta muutamalle tuhannelle tulosteelle.

7. Kaikkien tärkeiden tiedostojen ja paperidokumenttien varmuuskopiointi.

8. Auto huoltoon ja korjauksiin ajoissa. Hyvät talvirenkaar alle tai varastoon.

9. Henkinen inventaario siitä, että mikä on tärkeintä ja mikä ei.

10. Henkinen inventaario siitä, että kuka on tärkeä ja kuka ei.

11. Henkinen inventaario siitä, että kehen voi luottaa (moraali, osaaminen, resurssit...) missäkin asiassa ja kehen ei.

12. Sukset ja polkupyörät + rinkat tai reput myös kuntoon.

13. Vaippoja, kuukautissiteitä, kertakäyttöastioita, saippuaa, ehkäisytarvikkeita ja kaikkea muuta kuluvaa 1-3 kk varasto jos rähinä näyttää todennäköiseltä.

14. Hyötylukemista. Puhdetyövälineitä.

15. Ylimääräisiä yöpymistarvikkeita.

16. Lastenvaatetilanne ennakoivalla tavalla kuntoon.

17. Hyvä ja tehokas käsivalaisin + muutama välttävä.

18. Paljon erikokoisia kirjekuoria.

19. Testamentit, lastenhoitokuviot, omaisuusjärjestelyt, parisuhde- ja perhesopimukset yms. kuntoon pahimman varalta.

20. Jos ei asu tulisijatalossa niin ulkotulisijan tarpeet. Halvimmillaan riittävä läjä kierrätystiiliä.

21. Ylimääräinen nettitikku joka on eri operaattorilta kuin kodin pääasiallinen nettiyhteys.

22. Arvo-osuustilin sisällön ja säästöjen muun olomuodon uudelleenharkinta.

23. Silmälasi-, piilolinssi- yms. "vammaispuvälineet" kuntoon - tuplattuna.

24. Mielialan ja henkisen hyvinvoinnin kannalta hyödyllisiä pikkuhankintoja.

25. Tarpeeton, mutta myyntikelpoinen krääsä ajoissa myyntiin.

26. Pakastepusseja ja tiiviitä astioita ruokaa varten. (Kriisi tuo usein mukanaan torakat, riisihäröt, jauhokuoriaiset yms.)

27. Kodin perustyökalut kuntoon.
 
Soveltaen tämä toimii myös Suomessa rakennetulla alueella.

I am sharing experience and ideas about surviving in an urban environment in the event of short-term or major, long-term emergency situation. We’re currently talking about getting home, whether from work or campus, since home is where our supplies are most likely stored.

Get Home Bag
On the subject of equipment and supplies, you’ve probably heard the term “Get Home Bag” (GHB). A lot of the discussion you can find regarding GHBs deals with handling a multi-day trek through the wilderness. Most of the time, the recommended content focuses on things like starting fires, building shelter, finding water, et cetera. Most of that shouldn’t be necessary for an urban trek of any more than (hopefully) a few miles. Below is my recommendations for urban GHB items you should have with you whenever you go out.

Spare Keys- [P1]
Always have spare keys with you. Getting home safely doesn’t make any difference, if you can’t get in once you’re there. You should always carry a complete set of spare keys necessary to get into your apartment (outside door, deadbolts, et cetera). Use something like a belt with hidden pockets, your wallet, or wear a spare set around your neck on a dog tag chain. But always have them on you. Don’t depend on hiding a spare set near your apartment, since there are very few nooks or crannies that will stay undisturbed for very long in most urban environments.

Carry Bag [P1]
This carry bag can be a backpack, briefcase, or even a small waist bag. If you don’t normally carry a backpack, you can get an inexpensive packable one. You can even just use a shopping bag, although you should try to keep your hands free if possible. You can also put all of your GHB items into smaller organizer bags that you can transfer between different backpacks or briefcases.

Breath of Life Mask[P1]
The majority of fire-related deaths are caused by smoke inhalation, so a mask is important. For some reason (at least in the movies) disasters always result in fires. If you spend time in any building taller than two stories, I highly recommend having one of these on you at all times.

Emergency Cash Stash [P1]
Depending on the type of event, stores may still be open and, if the electricity is down, will probably only accept cash. If you’ve prepared correctly, there shouldn’t be anything you need. Still, it’s always nice to be able to pad your stocks or to handle any gaps, like that knife/hatchet/crowbar you weren’t allowed to bring into the office with you.

Map [P1]
Get a paper map that covers the area between your work or school and apartment. If available, get a laminated one like the StreetWise series, since that will survive getting wet. If you have to detour around a rioting mob, you may end up having to take a route you’re not familiar with.

Compass [P1]
Even if you know your route home, you may end up having to make a detour or running from danger, and you may end up someplace you aren’t familiar with or where you can’t see any landmarks and need a compass. Being able to orient your map could speed up your trip home.

First Aid Kit (FAK) [P1]
A first aid kit is important in any emergency. Depending on the nature of the disaster, how long you waited to head home, and your route, you may encounter looting mobs, fires, car crashes, rubble, and other obstacles you don’t normally have to deal with, all of which significantly increases your risk of injury. Since even minor disasters tend to overwhelm most urban emergency services, you should always have the ability to treat injuries yourself. You don’t need a full-blown FAK; it just needs to have enough supplies to handle any serious injuries that might prevent you from getting home or that might turn into a long-term problem without immediate care. You can buy a good pre-built kit, or you can roll your own. I’d recommend including the following:

Knife [P1]
Carrying a knife can be tricky. I’ve been in places where just making a chopping motion with your hand will bring security a-running. Then, there are other places, where a Bowie knife strapped to your leg doesn’t raise any eyebrows. You need to do some research for your city/state as well as the various offices, buildings, campus, et cetera that you frequent to see what’s allowed and what’s not. For the most part, I’ve found that a simple Swiss Army Knife (SAK) is okay in most places. The Hiker model is the one I’ve carried for years. However, you should do some research to figure out what would work best for you. If you can get away with carrying it, you should also consider a locking folding knife. You can find a decent locking folder starting at around $4, and the features and prices go up from there. I’ve found that, in some places, security will hold items for you while you’re inside the building and return them to you when you leave. Note that unless you’re well-trained in knife fighting, the knife is meant as a tool and not a weapon. Even if you’re trained, trying to fight someone using a Swiss Army Knife will probably do more damage to you than your opponent.

Multitool [P1]
Multitools are just so incredibly useful in an urban environment. You can find decent ones for not much money, but you may run into the same issues as you do with a knife, since most of them have knife blades. One exception is the SOG PowerLock Traveler, which doesn’t have a knife blade. (But, it does cost a lot more.)

Pry Bar [P2]
I’m mixed on the idea of recommending a pry bar. It can help you open doors, cabinets, et cetera, but in order to be really effective it needs to be large (and hence, heavy). You can find quality smaller ones for around $10, or you can get an inexpensive regular one at your local hardware or home store. There’s also an entire class of tools known as “demolition tools” that incorporate a wide range of other features along with a pry bar. Analyze possible issues and obstacles to getting out of your daytime building and on your route home to determine if you need one. Keep in mind that some places will consider it a weapon.

Filter Mask [P1]
Protects you from smoke, dust, and many biological transfers. Get one of the N95 fold-flat ones with an exhalation valve. If you’re worried about germs floating around in the air and you want to look slightly less paranoid, carry some of the anti-viral face masks.

Gloves [P1]
You may have to climb, move rubble, or pick things up, so you’ll need to protect your hands with gloves. You can go with either basic leather work gloves or the mechanic/tactical type. You should also carry a pair of nitrile gloves, in case you have to deal with a biological disaster, like an epidemic.

Goggles [P1]
Goggles provide protection for your eyes from smoke, dust, bodily fluids, et cetera and can also be useful in the rain or snow (especially if you wear glasses). Get a pair with indirect venting. I put my gloves and filter mask inside the goggles and wrap a rubber band around them.

Small Convex Mirror [P1]
This mirror is useful for checking around corners for any potential threats before exposing yourself or for checking if you’re being followed. You can find a side-view mirror stick-on type for a few dollars at almost any store that has an auto parts section.

Flashlight [P1]
Since you never know when you may need to operate at night in a city without power, a flashlight to read your map and check those dark corners could be critical. I recommend one that uses AAA batteries (small size), offers a low and high mode, and produces at least 120 lumens. You can find them for anywhere from $15 to hundreds of dollars. Don’t forget to include some spare batteries, and to check it once a month.

Headlamp [P1]
I’m a huge fan of headlamps, since they let you throw light wherever you’re looking without having to use your hands. This can be especially useful if you need both hands to dress a wound on yourself in the dark. Get one that has specs similar to your flashlight (batteries, modes, and lumens). The Olight model I pointed to also has a red light mode to help preserve your night vision.

Repairs [P1]
For repairs, carry some paracord and 10’ or so of 1” Gorilla Tape rolled up on a small dowel or in a flat pack. You can do emergency repairs to your bag, shoes, et cetera that might make a difference in getting home safely.

Food & Water [P1]
This may not be necessary for a short trip, but a few snack bars might be useful if your blood sugar starts getting low. Also, clean water can be used for washing out wounds or clearing debris out of your eyes or mouth. A full metal water bottle with a paracord lanyard or large carabiner attached also makes a pretty effective swinging club in an emergency.

Corrective Eyewear [P2]
If you wear glasses or contacts, include a spare set of eyewear in your bag in case you lose or break your primary pair. Get your current prescription from your optometrist and order an inexpensive backup pair from Walmart or an online site, like ZenniOptical.

Poncho [P2]
Your poncho doesn’t have to be anything fancy, just something to keep you dry in case it rains during your journey home. You can stock one of those inexpensive plastic disposable ones, since it only needs to survive for one trip. However, a decent one can be useful for many other situations and will last a lot longer.

Self-Defense Weapons [P2]
I’ve saved the best (and most difficult) for last. The various business, school, city, county, state, and federal rules and regulations regarding firearms and other self-defense weapons can be complex and incredibly restrictive. But, if there’s any way for you legally and safely to carry a concealed handgun, I’d highly recommend doing so. Cities can be dangerous even in the best of times. If people think the rules are about to go out of the window due to a disaster, things will probably quickly turn into a free-for-all. If you can’t carry a firearm, try to at least carry a decent pepper spray device and several reloads. A stun gun could also be a viable option, but it requires close contact to be effective. An expandable baton could be a good choice, since you can use one if you can swing a club. Whatever you end up with, make sure you get some training and practice using it.

The Bag
All of this will fit into a fairly small bag. This whole kit can be put together gradually over a period of weeks or months for around $200, not including the handgun/weapon. Make sure you practice using and are comfortable with everything in your GHB.
https://survivalblog.com/surviving-urban-environment-part-2-j-m/

The goal of this article is to share some of what I’ve learned over the years in order to help folks who want to be prepared to survive for a few weeks or months and are, for whatever reason, living in an urban environment. For the purpose of this discussion, I consider “urban” living to mean you are living and working within 20 miles of a city with more than 100,000 inhabitants. It’s critical to understand that urban environments are not a good option for long-term survival. Between the population densities (average is around 4000 people/sq. mi.), criminals/gangs, and lack of sustainable resources, you can probably plan on surviving on your own resources for a few weeks or months at most. After that, you’d better hope things either go back to normal or have a “Phase 2” plan to get to a better survival location.

Since many folks who live in urban areas tend to be younger and not have a lot of disposable income, I’ve tried to provide the least expensive recommendations that could still meet requirements. I’ve provided online links for ordering where I could. But keep in mind you may be able to find many items (or equivalents) less expensive in your local Walmart, dollar store, second-hand shop, or even on eBay. Since living spaces in most urban areas tend to be smaller multi-story apartments, I’ve also tried to minimize storage requirements. These conditions could also apply to college students living on or near a campus.
Perusteet Selviytymiselle Urbaanissa Ympäristössä.
 
Maalla on kaikki parempaa. Meillä oli arkkupakastimessa marjoja, sieniä, kalaa katiskoista, puolikas hirveä ja kaikkea muuta mukavaa. Perunakellarissa oli monta sataa perunoita, sipuleita, ja muita juureksia. Intin aikana kun faija lähti saksaan, ja mutsi lappeenrantaan artesaani kouluun, niin ei mulla ollut mitään hätää. Aina oli ruokaa, ja sitä riitti pitkälle myös sen jälkeen kun armeijasta pääsi pois.

Kaupungissa tämä kaikki on sitten ruokakaupan johdolla. Mitään pottumaita ole missään lähellä, ja jos on niin mahdollisuus on siinä että ne varastetaan. Nyky kaupunki ihmiset eivät lähde minnekkään marjametsään, taikka sienestämään, puhumattakaan metsästämisestä taikka kalastamisesta. Maalla sen sijaan on melko pakko harrastaa näitä asioita, kun ne kaupat voivat olla helvetin kaukana ja omavaraisuus on kunniaa.
Hyvä keskusteluketju löytyi! Tähän perunan yms kasvisten omavaraiskasvatukseen esittäisin sellaisen huomion, että sitä ei oikein voi yhtäkkiä polkaista käyntiin jos tarve tulee ns puun takaa.. Eli ne perunat ja muut kasvit olisi saatava jonkunlaiseen kasvimaahan keväällä, ja sitä siemenperunaakin pitäisi saada jostain käsiinsä samoihin aikoihin. Jos joku kriisi alkaisi loppukesästä tai syksystä/talvesta niin hetken siinä saa odotella ennen kuin on uuden sadon perunaa saatavilla.. Mutta hyviä pointteja tullut tässä esiin paljonkin!
 
Taidot kaupunkiympäristössä

Skills For the Trek Home
You’ll need to develop some skills necessary to survive a trek home under potentially difficult circumstances. These include:

Physical Fitness
Your physical fitness is fundamentally important. If your only regular exercise is from walking to and from the subway, you’re going to have a hard time walking 20 blocks to your apartment in any reasonable amount of time. Furthermore, you won’t be able to run away from danger if you need to. Remember that rule #1 is cardio! There’s a lot of good information available on basic survival fitness. It’s something you can do for little or no cost.

Situational Awareness
A lack of situational awareness can get you killed. A normal urban environment is a cacophony of sounds, sights and smells, which you’ve probably gotten pretty good at tuning out; however, in a disaster scenario, things will change quickly and you need to be aware.

Unarmed Self Defense
You don’t need to become a black-belt ninja, but even some basic self-defense skills can potentially get you out of a dangerous encounter alive. Many groups offer free or low-cost self-defense classes in urban areas. You can also get involved in some of the more structured martial arts like Krav Maga.

Parkour
Parkour is probably optional, but having the ability to move quickly through complex urban terrain could make a huge difference. If I had known about this back when I was in my 20’s, I definitely would have partaken.

First Aid
You’ll need to know how to effectively use the items in your first aid kit. Therefore, you should take at least a basic first aid class. Many urban businesses, fire departments, colleges, and medical schools offer low-cost or even free first-aid training, so do some research for your area.

Bugging In
With regards to your apartment, you need to ask yourself, “Can I survive here for X weeks/months?” You need to define your “X” goal, which is how long you think you might be able to survive, and against what types of threats. If your main concern is short-term survival (as in days or weeks) for things like blizzards, hurricanes, and the occasional riot, you probably don’t need much. However, if you want to be able to handle medium-term events (for weeks or months), there’s a lot more you can and should do. As I mentioned earlier, long-term survival (months or years) probably isn’t practical in an urban environment (outside of the movies). For this reason, I’ll focus on the medium-term stuff.

Water
The general rule-of-thumb is that you can survive for three days without water. Clean water is critical, and it will probably be one of the most difficult-to-obtain items in a post-disaster, urban environment. For cooking and drinking, an average person needs about one gallon of water per day to stay healthy. This measurement doesn’t include water use for sanitation. (I’ll have more on that later.) The first thing you should do after a disaster is to fill as many containers with water from your faucets as you can, since you don’t know how long clean water will be available. Collapsible water containers [P1] don’t take much storage space when empty, and you can use them to collect and store a lot of water before your supply shuts off.

If you have a bathtub, you should also consider having a WaterBoB or AquaPod [P2] on hand. They allow you to store up to 100 gallons of water in your tub. (And your tub doesn’t even have to be clean!) You should continue to use water from your faucets for as long as you can before using your stored supplies, but keep in mind that municipal filtration systems may fail any time after a disaster, so you may have to start purifying it.

Storing Water
Since you can’t be sure that any water will be available from your faucet immediately after a disaster, you should also plan on pre-storing at least 10-20 gallons of fresh water per person [P1]. There are various sizes and types of water storage containers available, including the Aqua-Tainer, WaterBrick, Jumbo-Tainer, et cetera. Find something that you can fit into your available storage plan. Put eight drops of plain liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of water into each container when you fill it to prevent mold. Store the containers in a dark location, and plan on emptying and re-filling the containers every year or so. Keep in mind that water weighs 8.34 lbs. per gallon, so don’t stack more in one place than your floor can support. (That’s why waterbeds aren’t allowed in some buildings. For you younger readers, read this.)

Collecting Water
No matter how much water you store, eventually you’ll run out. Therefore, you’ll need some way to collect and process more. If the government’s still around in some form, they’ll probably be distributing water, so refill your containers any chance you get. If there’s no water being delivered or it’s too dangerous to leave your apartment, you should have some way to collect rain or snow [P2]. You can buy a drain tarp with a hose connector that you can hang up on your balcony, roof, fire escape, or from a couple of poles stuck out of a window, or you can make your own for a couple of dollars with some clear plastic sheeting, a drain fitting, and a length of garden hose.

You should cover the drain opening at the bottom of the tarp by duct-taping down a piece of cloth to filter out dirt, insects, and other suspended particles. Do not assume the water is safe to drink as it’s collected. Take down your water collection system when it’s not in use to cut down on dirt, bird poop, and other contaminants as well as to protect it from potential wind damage.

Other potential sources of water in urban environments are the fire and water systems in commercial buildings. You can open many of those types of valves with an inexpensive sillcock key.

Contaminants
There are two types of contaminants you need to worry about with untreated water– biological (germs) and metal/chemical. If you collect rain water, your primary concern will be germs picked up from your collection system. If you collect water from a ground source, like a nearby river or lake, you also need to be concerned with metal and chemical contaminants.

Rendering Water Safe To Drink
There are a number of options available for rendering water safe to drink, depending on possible contaminants:

Chemical Treatment (For Germs)
This can be through the addition of eight drops of plain chlorine bleach for each gallon of water. Or, you can use water purification tablets.

Boiling (For Germs)
Boiling will kill most of the organisms in the water that could impact your health. However, this will require a significant long-term heat source to boil the water.

UV Light/ SODIS (For Germs)
You can use UV light from the sun to kill germs in water, with some caveats:

  • The container must be completely clear to allow sunlight in.
  • The water must be perfectly clear. Any sediment in the water will reduce the effectiveness of the process.
  • Since the sunlight loses effectiveness as it passes through water, the biggest container you should use is a standard 2-liter soda bottle.
  • It takes about six hours of full sunlight to purify a 2-liter bottle of water.
Filter (For Germs/Chemicals)
This is probably your best bet. It’s important to pay attention to the type of filter. Some filters, like the LifeStraw or Sawyer Mini, are good at filtering biological elements, but they don’t filter chemicals. You want a filter that has a 0.2 micron or smaller element to stop germs and also includes an activated charcoal element if you need to filter chemicals. At the high end, you can get something like a Berkey water filter, which is generally recognized as one of the best available and can provide over three gallons of clean water per hour. You can also purchase a kit and make your own countertop filter using a couple of plastic buckets.

More compact and less expensive options with replaceable elements are also available. Just be aware that they don’t provide the same rate of filtering per hour.

Whichever option you chose, you need to have some hoses and connectors to transfer the water into the filter and back into your clean containers. Make sure you clearly mark each container and hose to indicate if it’s for clean or dirty water.

Distillation [For Germs/Chemicals]
Distilling involves collecting evaporated water that condenses on a colder surface. Evaporation can be from natural exhalations from a plant, natural humidity in the air, or from water that’s been heated. When water evaporates, it usually leaves most impurities behind, so the evaporated water tends to be drinkable. Collecting water using plastic around trees, in the ground, or heated by the sun produces water slowly. Using a heated still to produce steam requires a source of fuel. So these two methods aren’t generally suitable for most urban environments. The one big advantage to using a solar or heated water still is that it can produce drinkable water from salt water. So, if your city is on a coast and you have access to a consistent heat source, it might be worth buying or building a still.

There’s a lot of good information on the web regarding purifying water (as well as a lot of bad information). I recommend you do some research and pick a solution that works best for you.

Food
Food is only slightly below water in term of its importance to survival. An average person can survive (but not necessarily function effectively) for two to three weeks without food. There are a lot of variables involved in that number, such as weight, age, gender, and level of activity. While a lot of prepping advice revolves around stocking up on canned and bulk items and growing and canning your own food, much of that isn’t practical in the limited space available in an urban apartment.

With the considerations of cost, storage volume, and preparation requirements per meal, the best option for urban dwellers is probably freeze-dried (FD) food in #10 metal cans. They have a long shelf life (20+ years), only require water (hot or cold) to prepare, come in a wide variety, are rodent-proof when unopened, and the average #10 can contains around 20 or more servings. Assuming three meals per day with two servings per meal, ten #10 cans should be roughly enough for one person for one month.

Stocking Up Food
Here are some notes on stocking up on food:

  • Prices of #10 cans of freeze-dried food can vary from $8 to over $50, depending on the type of food. Check around for sales and compare prices at local camping and Walmart stores when buying.
  • Some vendors, such as Mountain House, provide individual FD meal pouches as well as #10 cans, so you can try them out to make sure you like them before buying a full can.
  • Plan your food stocks with an eye towards variety and nutritional requirements. Stock a good selection of both full meals and extras, like crackers, vegetables, and fruits, and include some condiments like sugar, honey, butter, and spices sealed in mylar bags.
  • Include some cold FD breakfast meals, like granola and fruit.
  • Include some drinks, like fruit juice powder, instant coffee, and hot chocolate.
  • Shelf-stable non-FD foods should be in your preparations, like food bars, for situations where you might not be able to prepare your FD food. These are useful in case you need to leave your apartment for a while and want to take food with you.
  • A lot of people think of military MRE meals (Meal, Ready to Eat) when they think of survival food. Most people that have had to eat MREs for any period of time tend to dislike them, but I’ve met some folks that love them. My recommendation is to buy a few and try them. Then decide for yourself. Keep in mind that they tend to be more expensive per meal than #10 FD cans, and they only have a 5-year shelf life, but they can be easier to prepare. (There’s no need to add water.)
  • Keep a decent measuring cup handy for measuring the food and water portions.
  • If you’re going to be storing metal #10 cans someplace that can get wet or has high humidity, consider getting some packing protection or put them in plastic bags with moisture absorbers to prevent rust.
  • Don’t forget to store can openers!
Additional Bulk Foods
If you want to store some additional bulk foods, like rice, pasta, beans, or grains to extend your FD food supply [P3], use mylar bags and oxygen absorbers inside of square plastic buckets. The square buckets store more efficiently than round ones, since you don’t have the gaps between them. And you can get them in smaller sizes. Check out your local bakeries and delis. A lot of them get their food supplies in food-grade plastic buckets, and they may be willing to give them to you for free.

Preparing Food and Heating Water
In order to prepare stored FD food, you’re going to need a method for heating water. There are a lot of low-cost compact stove options available, including propane, butane, wood, white gas, et cetera. The best option for an apartment dweller is generally a simple alcohol camping stove [P1]. Most apartments don’t allow you to store compressed flammable gas, like propane, and having even small wood fires burning inside your apartment probably isn’t a good idea.

The alcohol stove usually involves two parts – the burner and the stove or pot support. You can buy an inexpensive burner, or you can make one yourself from a couple of soda cans. The stove/pot support holds the pot above the flame and can be a folding unit. Or, you can make one yourself for almost nothing. A quart of fuel costs around $8 and should last a few weeks. Make sure you also stock a small funnel for pouring fuel into the burner. You’ll need a stash of Bic lighters or ferrocerium rods for lighting the stove, and a small pot for heating up the water.

It’s critical to remember that burning anything, even alcohol, in an enclosed space consumes oxygen and can produce dangerous gasses. While this shouldn’t be much of a problem even in a small apartment, pay attention to your physical condition while using the stove. If you begin to feel dizzy, nauseous, have trouble breathing, or get a headache, extinguish the stove and get some fresh air immediately. Also, keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Caution About Odors of Cooking
Once all of the normal pollution and other odors in the city dissipate and people are starving, the smell of cooking food may carry a long way and attract a lot of people who firmly believe they are entitled to your food. (These people may be inclined to use violence to enforce that belief.) If you have enough to feed a large group on a regular basis and chose to do so, then bless you. If not I’d recommend that you plug the gaps around your door and keep any windows or outside vents closed until the smell has dissipated.
https://survivalblog.com/surviving-urban-environment-part-3-j-m/
 
Selviytyminen pitkittyneessä konfliktissa

Hygiene
As the saying about hygiene goes, “Cleanliness is next to godliness.” That’s especially true, if you’re confined to a limited enclosed area for a long period of time. Keeping yourself clean is critical for good health, and keeping your environment clean will minimize the risk of unwanted pests. The problem tends to be how to accomplish this with a minimal amount of water. I will now go over some recommendations.

Clean Your Apartment
Keep your apartment clean by regularly sweeping, dusting, and wiping surfaces and dishes down with disinfecting wipes. The wipes only store for a few months, so you should regularly rotate through those while maintaining a several month supply. Clean up any food spills immediately.

Quickly Bag Trash
You shouldn’t be producing much trash, but make sure you bag what you do produce and get the bags out of your apartment quickly. Since trash pickup probably won’t be coming any time soon, you’ll need to get creative to find somewhere to deposit your trash bags as far away from your apartment building as possible. Think “rat bait”.

Rat and Roach Poison
Keep a supply of rat and roach poison, since other folks around you probably won’t be as diligent about cleanliness. Apply both liberally around both the interior and exterior perimeter of your apartment.

Clean Yourself
Clean yourself thoroughly at least every other day using wipes or no-rinse soap and shampoo. Short hair and beards are a lot easier to keep clean, so stash a pair of hair scissors and keep your hair short. (Sorry, ladies, for the hair not the beard part.)

When It Rains
If there’s someplace safe you can go outside (roof, courtyard, et cetera), take a shower and wash your clothes when it rains. You can stock up on regular bars of soap for those occasions, since bar soap stores for a long time.

Indoor Shower
If you want to be able to take an indoor shower and can spare some water, you can use a camp shower and a 2-liter soda bottle. Just make sure you collect the used water and use it to flush your toilet or wash your clothes.

Anti-Microbial and Quick Drying Clothing
Switch to clothing that incorporates anti-microbial properties, like merino wool, bamboo, and synthetic clothing. It’s also good for it to be quick drying.

Teeth
Brush your teeth daily using toothpaste tablets. Also, floss or use dental picks after each meal.

Toilet Use
Your toilet should still work, even if you have to pour “gray” water into the bowl to get it to flush. You should save up as much waste in the toilet as you can between flushes without causing it to back up. Odors can be sealed between flushes by wrapping cling wrap over the ceramic top of the toilet or placing a heavy board lined with rubber over it.

If you can’t spare enough water to flush solid waste down the toilet, store a 5-gallon bucket, bucket liners, a toilet lid, and a big bag of cat litter. Use the bucket for solid waste, and sprinkle some cat litter on top after each use. When the bucket starts getting heavy, remove the bag and dispose of it as far away from your building as you can. Keep using your regular toilet for liquid waste.

Toilet Paper
Given that a quantity of toilet paper is one of the common metrics when it comes to prepping and that toilet paper is typically one of the most coveted items after a disaster, you should stock up on it. Buy the larger rolls to increase storage density and reduce the temptation to tap into your prep supplies when you run out of TP and forgot to stop by the store.

Safety and Security
Urban areas tend to be less-than-safe even in normal times, and after a disaster when people are desperate, things will likely get worse. After a week or two with little food, you can expect hungry (and armed) people to start scavenging from apartment to apartment. Your dead bolt and key lock probably aren’t going to be enough to keep them out. So, you’ll need to do a few more things to improve your security.

Operational Security
Practice good operational security (Opsec). This means not bragging to all of your friends about how well-prepared you are, because I guarantee you they’ll be banging on your door a couple of days after a disaster. It definitely means not sharing information regarding your preparations on any social media. Furthermore, it also means being invisible after a disaster. Avoid making loud noises. Cover your windows with black plastic at night, if you’re using any lights. Don’t sit out on your balcony during the day. Don’t stand up near the edge of the roof to look around, et cetera. It’s important to minimize your profile, since a well-equipped, healthy-looking individual will have a target painted on their back. You should also carefully consider any excursions outside of your apartment because that significantly increases your vulnerability.

Going Out
If you have to go out after a disaster, do so as soon after the event as you safely can. The longer things drag out, the more desperate and dangerous people will get. When you do go out, practice being a “gray man”. This means blending in with other people to avoid attracting attention.

Secure Your Door
Replace the screws in your door hinges, lock plates, and locks with long security screws. This will make it harder for someone to kick your door in. If your landlord won’t install the screws, do it yourself when no one’s around.

Add as many deadbolts and locks on your door as you can get away with. Once you’ve strengthened your hinge and lock screws, the structure of the door itself becomes a potential weak point. If your door’s not solid metal, be prepared to reinforce it with a sheet of ¾” of MDF or plywood. Cut the MDF/plywood to size and store it under your bed or in the back of your closet, or paint it and hang it on your wall as art. When you need additional security, use some construction adhesive and screws to attach it to your door to strengthen it. Make sure you cut holes for your peephole and door locks.

Door Security Bar
Use a door security bar. The next step up from that would be to bolt some bar holders on each side of your door and use a 2×4 to bar the door. Use 3” or longer lag bolts screwed into the door frame to attach the bar holders. (You’ll need a socket wrench to drive them in.) For maximum security, install two bars– one 1/3 of the way up from the floor, and one 1/3 of the way down from the top.

Wide Angle Peephole
If your door doesn’t have a good wide angle peephole, put one in. Use an inspection mirror or periscope when looking through it to prevent someone from shooting you through the door when they know where your head is.

Safety Mirror Across the Hall
Install a safety mirror across the hall from your door where you can see it from your peephole or when you crack the door open to make sure the hall is clear. Alternatively, you can drill some holes near the bottom of the wall near the door and use the periscope mentioned earlier to verify the coast is clear. (Holes near the floor are less likely to be noticed.) Make sure you plug up the holes when not in use to keep the vermin out.

Windows and Glass Sliding Doors
Windows and glass sliding doors can be difficult to secure, particularly if they can be accessed from a balcony or fire escape. See if your landlord will install interior-opening security bars for you, or obtain and store a set for yourself. You could also store some ¾” plywood or 2x lumber and lag bolts to cover up vulnerable glass ingress points. But keep in mind that these items may deprive you of their use as an emergency exit.

Walls
Don’t focus exclusively on doors and windows. Consider how someone could break through a wall, floor, or ceiling to get to you. Many apartments have concrete or brick exterior shells and wood and lathe or drywall interior walls. In this case, it’s not that hard to break through. There’s not a lot you can do to fortify against that. However, someone attempting to do so will probably make a lot of noise. This noise should give you time to either escape or prepare to defend yourself.

Shooting Through Walls
If you’re concerned about someone shooting through your walls or door, there unfortunately isn’t very much in a typical apartment that’s bullet-resistant. Your best bet would be to lay your refrigerator or stove on its side in the middle of the room in front of your door so you can use it for cover. Fill the empty space inside with books, rocks, or any other dense material you can find to increase the level of protection.

Security Camera
Consider stocking a security camera. Get one that uses a 5V power supply, transmits video via WiFi, and doesn’t require a cloud service to use. You can install it down your hallway facing your door or above your door and drill a hole through your wall to run the power wire. Cut off the wire at the supplied power brick and wire on a USB connector (typically red-to-red and black-to-black for the power). You can then plug the camera into a USB power battery whenever you need to check it, and the battery should last quite a while with occasional use. To view the video, you’ll need to set up your phone or tablet as a WiFi hotspot and configure the camera to connect to the hotspot WiFi network.

Make sure you have this all configured and working before a disaster happens. The reason for this is that you probably won’t have access to the Internet to get help post-SHTF. Also, turn off or cover up any status LED lights on the camera (leave the IR LEDs uncovered), since they’ll make it stand out like a disco in a dark hallway. If you have an action camera, like a GoPro or something similar that can stream video over WiFi, you could use that. However, you’ll need to figure out some way to turn it on and off remotely so it doesn’t constantly run out of battery power.

Escape Routes
Always have multiple escape routes planned from your apartment, your building, and your neighborhood. This could involve rappelling out of a window, down from the roof or off the balcony using a rigger’s belt, figure-8 descender, a climbing carabiner and some climbing rope. You might need to break through a wall, floor, or ceiling to another apartment or just go down a fire escape.

Keep a Bug-Out Bag (BOB) geared towards urban environments handy. Don’t forget to include the contents of your GHB from earlier.

If your escape plan includes rappelling, you should take some training courses beforehand. In the middle of an escape from armed intruders is not the best time to learn how to rappel. It’s also important to understand that a rigger’s belt is only for an absolute last-ditch emergency escape. It’s not designed to be used on a regular basis in place a real rappelling harness.
https://survivalblog.com/surviving-urban-environment-part-4-j-m/
 
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